I have an enterprise geodatabase, but no SDE services running. Can I use the sde writer to write to it?
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Yes, you can write to a sde database where the sde service is not running by using GEODATABASE_SDE writer and pointing to a sde connection file. The legacy SDE30 writer, on the other hand will not be able to write to your enterprise geodatabase if your sde services are not running.
I believe the question is a bit off:
The database needs to be up and running, the SDE services that connect ArcGIS to the database do not need to be running. The connection can be made by FME.